Lead Climbing Worldcup Puurs, Flanders 2011
WORLDCUP LEAD CLIMBING PUURS
Everybody present can confirm it: the world cup weekend in Puurs was absolutely great. Everything was in favour: The presence of 78 top climbers, the hottest first of October ever and last but not least the organisation crew of BVKB-Klimax can be proud of "our" lead climbing world cup heat. The IFSC official stated during the debriefing that his presence wasn't actually required any more in Puurs because everything ever runs so smoothly here that he has nothing left to do any more.
QUALIFICATIONS
The quarterfinals of the competition already started on Friday. Forty-five men and thirty-three women gave the best of themselves in each of both qualification routes, but only the 26 best performers of each group can go the semi-finals on Saturday. In this round Jakob Schubert, Jain Kim and Mina Markovic already proved there excellent condition by fully completing one route - Jain even did this twice. The sixteen year old Belgian climber Loïc Timmermans, who is still competing in the Youth A category which means that he can participate in the world cup for adults for the first time, climbed excellent in the qualifications. His leading position in the youth ranking on European level is not undeserved. Only recently, he won the bronze medal at the youth world championship in Imst, Austria. One of our sponsors even made our world cup reach the popular Friday evening TV show Man bijt hond in Flanders. They showed fragments of the selections and zoomed in to the huge colourful poster.
YOUNG BELGIAN CLIMBER IN SEMI-FINALS
On Saturday morning, the tension among the participants was clearly high. First, during observation while they have the time to read the routes to be climbed, and later on when the semi-finales actually started. Some of them fell unexpectedly early out of their route, while other less famous climbers surprised by achieving a remarkably high score. Each movement is awarded with points by the judges. The eight women and eight men with the highest scores in the semi-finals earn a ticket for the finals. It was obvious that the routes on Saturday morning were pretty exhausting as no one could make the top. Our young Belgian competitor Loïc Timmermans had a good start, but confirmed that it was a very technical route. He became 23rd.
NEW BELGIAN DYNO RECORD
Between the semi-finals and the finals, BVKB-Klimax organised a Guinness dyno record attempt. A dyno is a side jump from a few holds to a higher handhold placed on a 20° overhanging wall. It is a knock-out competition. Only those who can grab the hold with both hands continue to the next round. In each round, the final hold is placed a few centimetres further. The massive audience watched in excitement. The numerous participants from all countries were enormously encouraged. The Swiss battle cry "Go hard or go home" was picked up by the whole crowd. The Belgian record-holder Jochen Adriaensens had to use all his effort to prove our own club members that he is the best. The supporters bewitched their favourite Jochen by shouting: "Fly Forest, fly". The enthusiasm of the large number of participants and the crazy audience made two Belgian men break the old Belgian record by 2.5 cm. Even the women came close to the world record in an exciting duel between Swiss Rebecca Stötz and French Melissa le Nevé. Melissa only needed a few more centimetres. Her biggest jump was 2.15 m. Jochen Adriaensens won the men dyno by breaking his own Belgian record with a jump of 2.75 m in three attempts. Tim Goossens did the same in five attempts. Although his hands were bleeding, Yannick Lis became third. The spirit to win was overwhelming. The female first place went to Melissa Le Nevé. Belgian Magali Hayen did not obtain a medal.
Finals
Woman
The massive audience was immediately impressed by the first participant, Sasha Digiulian. This blonde American climber conquered all hearts with her light climbing style. Slovenian Mina Markovic and Austrian Magdelena Röck climbed according to all expectations to the fourth and third places. Johanna Ernst, also from Austria, fell too early, but her compatriot Angela Eiter reached the highest part of the blue route to a roar of applause until "Time is up!" made an end to her attempt. Korean Jain Kim even did better, climbing as if she does not have any bones in her tiny body - according to the speaker. The gold medal went to Jain Kim, Angela Eiter fully deserved silver and Mina Markovic was good for bronze.
Men
Tension grew gradually. Each climber had his own style, but they all performed well in their red route. Some of them, such as Spanish Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Canadian Sean McColl made the crowd gasp for breath by nearly falling. But... being part of the world top, they managed to recover spectacularly. Jakob Shubert from Austria finally won by some more moves from Japanese Sachi Amma and Ramón Julian Puigblanque. Jakob Shubert confirmed his superior strength and was very happy with his fifth golden medal of this season. Sachi Amma proudly became second and Ramón Julian Puiglanque third by only half a point difference.
Congratulations to all climbers and a big thank you for your amazing performances. Until next year in Puurs on 21 and 22 September 2012!
Report by Eefje Maes and Anne Cuypers-Vaeck
The team of BVKB/Klimax based in Puurs will host for the seventh time in a row the IFSC Worldcup in 2011.A unique selection of over hundred of the worlds best climbers will enjoy another world cup in Flanders, Belgium. With the support of the Klim- en Bergsportfederatie (KBF), the CMBel, the CAB, the NKBV and greatfull thanks to all sponsors, this world cup is set to become again a remarkable experience for the audience and the climbers.
The World Cup in Puurs is known as 'the place to be'for the audience and the climbers given its great ambiance and its unique atmosphere in the amazing Klimax semi-oudoors climbing dome, also known as the most amazing wall of the World Cup series.
Any plans yet for Friday 30th September and Saturday 1st October? Mark it in your agenda ! Jump in your car, on the train of just use your bike and visit this competition, you won't believe your eyes. In addition to watching the acrobatics of the climbers, you and your family can practice yourself a lot of special things associated to climbing, what do you think of the following: parachute simulation, outdoor climbing wall, a death ride, slack lines, a dyno contest, speleo box, inflatable jumping castle for kids, try to stack a tower beer cases while you stand on it until you drop, and so forth. Many of these attractions are provided with the support of the Belgian Army special forces.
Of course you can enjoy also some famous Belgian food and beverages (read beers).
The entrance and attractions are free of charge ! to promote sports climbing.
So please don't hesitate and just pass by, you'll be amazed.
Stay tuned on this website for all news related to the IFSC World Cup Puurs, Flanders 2011.
You can enjoy the competition also via the live-streaming, and find back results, comments and pictures during the competition days. Soon after
also a summary film will be available. As we count down to the competition, you can find some more background on this website on the history of the competition and pictures from the previous years.
Any questions? Are you from the press or do you wish to get in touch with the World Cup Team? Suggestions ? Please don't hesitate to contact us on dreamteam@klimax.be
